Each night, the Northern Lights play across the sky, blanking out the stars, and the days grow shorter. It's the start of winter in Greenland. My job here is new, and I'm loving it. I've been an environmental scientist for about 6 years. I grew up in a very different place; in the tropics, in Darwin, Australia, where the average daily temperature is approximately 40 degrees warmer than where I'm standing right now. But I love the cold, I can't get enough of it.
In Darwin, during the hottest time of year, I used to watch David Attenborough videos about cold climates. Antarctica - icebergs, penguins shuffling in circles in the semi-dark in sub-zero temperatures; the Arctic - a mother polar bear emerging from an ice burrow at the end of her hibernation and rolling down a mountain of snow ...'perhaps to clean her fur, or perhaps for sheer joy ...'. I hear David Attenborough's voice. I wished for even one cool breeze to fill my lungs and clear my foggy brain.
Now I'm on the other side of the world, working in a research station in Umanaaq, monitoring climate change - the impact on glaciers and the local environment more generally. My bedroom is utilitarian and the whole station is more functional than aesthetic. It's built as a bunker against the cold, which sometimes gets down to minus 20 degrees C.
Not much socialising goes on outside the station but inside there are quite lively board games in the evening. And card games. And drinking. I tend to keep to myself in the evenings, reading, writing, chatting online with friends and family. It's easy to get cabin fever in this small social environment and I don't want to get involved in other people's petty dynamics and politics.
I've left a boyfriend in Darwin. Actually now an ex. A lot of heartbreak there. It hurts to talk about it and I don't want to go into too much detail. Let's just say that it's good to be on the other side of the world. There are plenty of men on the base, but I wouldn't consider getting involved with anyone here. The risk if it all went wrong, then being stuck in the station together throughout the long winter ... nope.
Occasionally we get a visit from one of the scientists in one of the other research stations, which is always a relief from the usual crowd. Not that they are bad! It's just, you know, someone new. One particular scientist from another station has visited a few times. He's a Greenlander who went to university in Denmark, like young people tend to do here when they need to go to university. I guess he's about 30, with dark dark brown eyes. His name is Inuk - he's a Greenlandic Inuit.
"Hey Mac!" He calls me, making a nickname out of my surname. I like the relaxed way he talks to me.
"What's happening?"
He gives me his easy smile. I can't help smiling back. But before you go getting any ideas, as I said, I'm not getting involved with anyone in this small world, even if they are from another station. I'm burned, cauterised, stunted. If he's interested in me, in that way, I can't feel it. I'm Fort Mac, Greenland. Impenetrable and impervious.
To keep myself interested outside of work, I do photography. I love this wild stark environment; snow, blue glaciers, ancient rocks, and the wild grey Labrador Sea. I feel like I was born to be in this place.
I've photographed musk oxen, caribou, arctic foxes, hares, eagles, ptarmigan, lemmings and even the rare Arctic wolf. I'm good at laying low - moving slowly, keeping down wind, and waiting, sometimes for hours, to get my shot. Seeing animals in their natural environment is magic. The only species I'm not keen to meet up close is the polar bear. I don't care to be someone's dinner.
Inuk admires my photos. He loves his country too. He is a scientist but he's also a proud Greenlandic Inuit who likes to maintain the customs and skills of his forebears. He tells me about his ice-fishing and seal-hunting expeditions. Maybe I'd like to come with him some time? I'm polite but vague with my answer. Like, you know when you say "yes that would be great!" but you're just being polite - you don't intend that it will ever happen, and you won't be disappointed if it doesn't. I just don't want to get too involved with anyone.
One morning, I'm out on my snowmobile searching for a particular snow fox den I've heard about from one of the other scientists. I spot it. I lay low, praying to see this beautiful animal with its thick white coat.
I wait for half an hour and then to my delight, the black snout of a mother fox emerges from the den, followed by 3 kits. They play and tumble with each other while the mother is intent on finding something to eat. I hold my breath, stay as quiet as I can, stifling my laugh at the babies' antics. I take some beautiful photographs. My family and friends will love these - I post everything on Facebook and Instagram so the people I'm closest to can be here with me, in a way. My Mum hates it that I'm so far away.
I spend several hours laying in the snow, watching the snow foxes and snapping photographs, and some of it simply laying on my back, gazing up at the sky. I love being alone here - I feel like I'm in a place before time, where people and their things and bad boyfriends have never existed.
The light starts to dim and I realise with a start that I've probably been here too long. It won't be good to be trying to travel back to the base in the dark. I quickly pack up my gear, put it all in its padded protective bags, sling them around my neck, and mount the snowmobile. The ignition fails. The snowmobile coughs. Then it only clicks, like a car with a flat battery. Shit. This is trouble. In panic, I try the ignition again and again. Nothing works. Ok. Now I'm actually in real trouble. I'm wearing all the right gear, but not for surviving the night out in sub zero temperatures without shelter.
I try my sat phone. I call the base but no one answers. Damn it, I imagine they are playing cards, getting pissed. Is anyone wondering where I am? The downside of being a bit of a loner. Probably everyone assumes I'm in my room reading a book or checking in with my family on Facebook.
I'm getting more worried and I'm getting cold - penetrating cold despite my gear. It's minus 15 degrees C and after several hours outside I can feel the cold seeping into my clothing, or maybe the warmth being sapped out. I'm in real trouble if I'm stuck out here and nightfall is approaching. I generally have the mindset that there aren't many problems that I can't solve, and I'm struggling to comprehend that I might be facing real danger now.
Then, in the distance, I see a dog sled racing along the snow. I scream and yell and wave my arms. The snow seems to mute my voice. Please hear me, please hear me, I pray. They see me. The sled veers in my direction. I can hear the team of dogs baying joyously
I'm not a believer in the great spirit in the sky but at that moment I thank my imaginary god with all my heart.
As the sled draws nearer I can see the figure of a solo man. He pulls up, his cheeks and nose glowing from the cold and his black eyes sparkling.
Of all people, it's Inuk.
"Hey Mac!" He looks puzzled to see me. "What's happening?" He smiles at me and I feel his warmth and can't help smiling back. Gorgeous, I think, breath taken for a moment. Then I scramble to shut the feeling down.
"God, I am so glad to see you. I thought I was stuffed."
I show him the snowmobile. He tries the ignition and shakes his head.
"Battery's flat."
"Shit."
"You're lucky I came along! What were you going to do?"
"I have no idea!" I shiver.
"No way you'll be getting back to the base before dark." he squints at the horizon and looks back at me seriously."You'd better come along with me."
"Where are you going?"
"Back to my base." he says. I look at his sled. He has a large team of healthy looking dogs and it looks as though he has been ice fishing. Abandoning the wretched snowmobile, I think, my boss will kill me if I lose this machine - but the cold will kill me first if I don't go now.
Inuk clears a space for me to sit on the sled. There isn't a lot of space with all the equipment he is carrying, and with all my photographic gear. I find myself jammed right up against his back with my legs either side of his. I can feel that he is muscular and well-built under his thick clothing and it gives me a bit of a buzz. How nice to have an excuse to be crammed up against a good looking guy, I think.
He calls out to the dogs who are straining to run. We lurch suddenly so that I have to throw my arms around his waist to stay on, and we start flying across the snow with the dogs barking furiously.
"So tell me more about what do you do at the station?" he yells into the wind. I tell him about the work I am doing monitoring glacial melt and the impacts of climate change. He nods soberly. Then we don't talk anymore - it's too hard against the wind.