The Middle Fork of the Salmon River in Idaho is the best wilderness river trip in the lower 48. Flowing north through the Frank Church Wilderness for 100 miles, the scenery combined with world class fly fishing and whitewater excitement makes the Middle Fork a destination for people from all over the world.
I rafted the Middle Fork for over twenty years, with friends and family. Three years ago I decided to retire from my law practice. I had been a slave to my profession for too long. I specialized in land use and urban development. It was professionally rewarding, but my marriage and my health were casualties. I made more money than I could spend, so I decided to do what I wanted to do. One part was guiding the Middle Fork during the summer, then being a ski instructor for the winter and, in between, fishing and hunting to my heart's content.
I found that being a river guide suited me. I love being in the outdoors, experiencing the changing nature of the river during the season and sharing my love and knowledge of the river.
That brings me to last July. All the guides were waiting at the launch for our clients to arrive. We looked the part, fit, tanned, wearing river shorts, funky t-shirts and sandals. The young guides were typically taking time off from school to be a river guide for the summer. Others simply loved the outdoors and this was a great to earn money.
As the buses started to arrive, we assembled to meet the clients. This group was typical. We had several older "tree hugger" couples, several families with kids, and two young recently married couples. What was a bit unique was that we had a single mother, around 40, with her 9 year old daughter.
I was assigned the mother with her daughter. I run a command raft, which means that I am doing all the rowing and the clients can either enjoy the ride or they can fish. Having just two people in my boat was a bit unusual, as I tend to have three to four.
Just before the Forest Service orientation meeting, the guides are given a quick chance to meet their charges. I was taking Jackie and Annie for their first raft trip. It was apparent that they were not used to the outdoors. Their clothes and gear were all brand new and very expensive. Jackie was a beautiful woman. She was a tall slender brunette who looked as though she worked to stay in shape. Annie was a precocious kid who looked very much like her mother.
At the river's edge, we loaded the boats. There were three paddle boats that require that everybody gets a paddle and works under the direction of the guide to make it downstream. There were four command boats like mine and we had we had six inflatable kayaks for the adventurous. We were supported by two sweep rafts that carried the food, tents, luggage and other essentials for the trip. They do not carry clients and they had already left to get down river in order to set up for lunch.
Jackie looked a bit relieved to be riding in my raft. I am not sure she knew what to make of the younger guides with their wild hair, assorted piercings and rumpled look. As we started floating, I explained that we were going to be bouncing off rocks and that we might get stuck which would require me getting out and pushing. Beyond that, I told them to put on sun screen, sit back and enjoy the river.
The Middle Fork in surprisingly small at the top and it is very demanding directing a 15ft raft down the first 18 miles of the river. Jackie seemed very nervous at first, but Annie was having a blast. She loved getting splashed and helped me spot the rocks. During the first calm section, Jackie asked when we would have cell service. When I told her that we would not have service until we got off the river, she was less than pleased.
Jackie and Annie were from Connecticut. Jackie's dad was raised in Idaho and had made arrangements for the trip. He wanted his daughter and granddaughter to experience some of the best his home state had to offer. I was not surprised that this trip was not Jackie's idea.
As we floated along, she slowly started to open up about herself. She was a divorced single mother who worked as an attorney in New York, specializing in patent law. Annie split time between parents and this summer was Jackie's turn to have her. Annie's dad was a physician in North Carolina.
When we pulled into our campsite, all the other boats were already tied up. I got out and showed them to their tent, where all their gear was in place. The guides who run the sweep boats are the chefs and the rest of us help set up and entertain the clients before dinner.
Dinner was a big hit and the group moved to surround the fire to sing songs. One of the guides brings a guitar and leads everyone in campfire songs. The rest of us cleaned up and set up for the morning. It had been a long day, so most everybody turned in early.