Note: This story is long and takes time to unfold. That said, it's my first work, and I hope you enjoy it. All names of people have been changed. Would love some feedback if you can spare the time. Peace and love.
Part 1 of 6: The Onsen
In March of 2004, I moved to Ichihara in Chiba Prefecture, Japan to teach English at an
Eikaiwa.
I was a month shy of turning 26, had graduated from university with a bachelor's in Mathematics, and had decided that teaching was to be my life's calling. I'd cut my teeth as a private tutor for years and worked at various cram schools in and around Vancouver. Despite all this, I felt I still needed something more, something impressive that I could put on a resume down the road. Teaching overseas just felt like the obvious choice.
At least that's how I sold it to my parents when they asked why I wanted to fly halfway around the world to teach in a country I knew nothing about. Truth be told, I just wanted to move out of the house. I was a man by this point in my life, but only by age I felt, having grown up very little under my parents' roof.
As the oldest of three boys, I always strove to do everything first. But even with my one- and six-year head starts, my brothers would often beat me to the finish line. The elder of them, Tommy, had moved out the previous year to pursue his master's at the University of Waterloo. At the start of this story, he was eight years into a relationship with his girlfriend, Janet. In contrast, I was single and living with my parents. My longest relationship up till then had lasted all of three months.
My parents adored Janet. She was polite, well read, and respectful of her eldersâperfect daughter-in-law material. She got along great with me and my friends. To us, she was just one of the boys. Heck, she even looked the part: shoulder-length black hair; a slim, athletic build; skinny jeans, sneakers and a T-shirt most days; and even a raspy, masculine tinge in her voice.
Before Tommy moved out, we saw a lot of Janet around the house. My parents would have her over for dinner three, four, sometimes five nights a week. I didn't mind it at all. The lovebirds respected my privacy and remained mostly out of sight.
Four months into my stay in Japan, I received an email from Janet. She'd been accepted into the JET Program as an assistant language teacher in Mito up in Ibaraki Prefectureâthree hours north of Ichihara. Till then, I'd had no clue where Mito was or that Janet had entertained the idea of teaching overseas. I guessed it made sense. Tommy was going to school out east while she was searching for jobs (unsuccessfully) in Vancouver. If they were fated to do a long-distance relationship, what difference would a long
er
distance make?
I replied to Janet, telling her how psyched I was. "You're gonna love it here," I said, making sure, however, to temper her excitement. Meeting up with any kind of regularity was going to be challenging given the distance between our cities.
That's fine,
she wrote in her next email.
At least I'll have a friend close by.
It would be another two months before Janet would make it to Japan. The day of her arrivalâa FridayâI took an evening train into Shinjuku to visit her at the hotel that she and the other new hires were staying at. Orientation would be the next day, all of Sunday was set aside for travel, and Monday would be their first day on the job.
Janet was sitting patiently in the hotel lobby when I arrived. She had on sweatpants and a faded denim jacket over a sweatshirt. When she heard me call out to her from across the lobby, she got up, scurried over, and hugged me for possibly the first time in all the time I'd known her.
"How was your flight?" I asked, happy to see a familiar face after so many months.
"Long," she answered, letting out an exasperated groan. I'd suffered through the same gruelling 10-hour flight back in March, so I knew she had to be exhausted.
"Come up to the room," Janet continued. "I want you to meet Sonya, my roommate for the weekend."
We took the elevator up to her floor and walked down the hall to her room. Sonya, a fellow Vancouverite, was in the middle of unpacking the contents of an oversized suitcase. She casually waved to us, finished her unpacking, and fell forward onto her mattress with a thud. Like Janet, she looked completely spent.
The three of us would spend the better part of the next hour talking about all things Japanese, the girls asking the questions, and me answering them the best I could. I taught them some useful phrases from my limited Japanese, mostly salutations and ways to ask for help. As the night dragged on, the girls got sleepier, so I wished them the best with their new jobs, gave Janet another big hug, and showed myself out.
I wouldn't see Janet again for another three months. In late January, my best friend, Bruce, came to visit for two weeks. I'd made a list beforehand of things to do and places to see. At the top of this list was a ski trip up to Aomori with teachers and students from Janet's school. The school administrators didn't mind us tagging along. They could always use an extra chaperone or two, we'd been told.
The Friday of the weekend of, Bruce and I rode the train up to Ibaraki to meet Janet at her school. The school turned out to be quite the trek from the station, and we had to stop and ask for directions on more than one occasion. Luckily, we arrived just as the final bell of the day was sounding. A line of buses was already parked out front, their drivers standing in a small circle and having a smoke.
Bruce and I waited by the buses. Slowly, teachers and students began to pour out of the school. Janet appeared not long afterwards and introduced us to her colleagues. I would forget all but two of their names within a minute. Takashi, the trip coordinator, was a 30-year-old punk rocker with dyed blonde hair. There was also Kiera, a fellow JET teacher from Los Angeles, who was half-Japanese and quite well-endowed.
After exchanging a few pleasantries, we loaded our bags and boarded our bus. One final headcount, and we were off to the resort. The drive up to Aomori was another eight hours, most of which I spent napping. The farther north we got, the colder and snowier the passing landscape became. By the time we got in, the mountain was closed, so we all met in the dining hall for a quick supper before retiring to our rooms for the night.
The next evening, after a long day of skiing, several of the adults suggested going to an
onsen.
These natural hot springs were found all over Japan, but the ones at this resort, our Japanese friends were saying, were some of the most beautiful. I'd never been to one myself. Ichihara was an industrial town that didn't offer such amenities.
Eight of us, including Takashi, Kiera, Bruce, Janet, and me, met in the lobby half an hour later. We squeezed into two rented cars and drove around the resort-town looking for places that were still open. We were disheartened to find most of them closed. The two that weren't didn't prove any better. We watched twice from the car as Takashi would enter, only to re-emerge shortly afterwards, shaking his head dejectedly.
"What's the problem?" I asked Takashi, garnering no response. No one else in the car seemed to know either, or at least no one was saying. I started to fear the worst, that we were being turned away because of our foreignerâor
gaijin
âstatus. It wasn't an uncommon practice in Japan. A teacher friend of mine had been asked to leave an
onsen
because of a small tattoo on his arm.