Author's note:
This story is inspired and informed by my friendships and encounters with Chinese Americans in the tourism industry. The character of the female tour leader is a combination of two real people about whom I have heard stories but never met in person. The character of Johnny is loosely based on a man I have met several times. The story is set pre-pandemic.
Thank you for reading.
***
"Johnny Dragontours!" Ben wove between tables, his eyes still adjusting to the gloom of the basement restaurant. "I couldn't see you back here."
"Benjamin Firstbank!" Johnny rose from his seat at the bar to embrace his friend. "You need glasses, old man."
"It's as dark as a dungeon. How do you find these places?"
Johnny seated himself and gestured for Ben to do the same. "Dungeon?"
"Ah, hold on." Ben opened WeChat and typed the word into the shared chat session with Johnny.
"Dun-geon," Johnny muttered, sounding out the unfamiliar word. "I'll look it up later. How have you been?"
"Same same. You know, living the DC dream. Beautiful women, plenty of money, a shitty football team..."
"The Giants weren't any better this year," Johnny said, before shouting something in Mandarin. He gestured impatiently at a waitress hovering at the door to the kitchen. The young woman turned away expressionlessly.
"I can't get used to that," Ben said. "In my American-Boy world, we'd smile at the waitress, she'd come over, we'd say hello, then ask for tea politely. You just yell at her."
"She'll bring tea," Johnny said. "It isn't considered rude."
Ben shrugged. It was a cultural difference, albeit one that still startled him. "How do you find these places?"
"This restaurant?"
"Yes. I didn't even know this place existed, and I walk through Capitol Hill all the time."
Johnny held up a closed hand. "Three things," he began. "Has to be Chinese." He held up a finger. "Has to be a place to park the tour bus not too far away." He held up a second finger. "And it has to be cheap," he concluded, extending the third finger.
"And they have to give you a kickback, right?"
"Yes." Like the curt behavior with the waitress, kickbacks were such an ingrained part of Johnny's work they didn't merit attention. As a tour guide, he would receive a few dollars per client per meal, a lump sum for stopping the tour bus at a gift shop, and a commission if any of his clients purchased upscale jewelry or designer goods.
With a clang, the waitress planted a teapot in front of them, slapped down two cups, and left. Johnny served Ben and then himself.
"How's this group so far?"
"It's okay," Johnny shrugged. Around them, Chinese tourists devoured lunch served from family-style dishes, some of which Ben recognized, others he could only guess at.
"How many nights will you be in DC?"
"Just last night and tonight. Monuments this morning. We'll tour the Capitol this afternoon. Tomorrow we take them to Dulles to catch their flight."
"It's a shame these groups don't stay longer," Ben mused. "You never take them to Mount Vernon, the Zoo... I bet they'd like the C&O canal boat tour."
"They've never heard of those places. It's only what's on the Chinese-language website back home, and what the leader tells them about."
"Which one is the leader?"
Johnny's face darkened. "That bitch isn't here."
"Whoa, what?"
"She's trouble."
"I take it you've worked with her before?"
Johnny shook his head. "No, but she's brought other groups to Dragon Tours."
"What's wrong with her?" Ben had met Johnny years ago through an ex-girlfriend who was also in the travel business. He had never known the man to get so worked up.
"She causes the guides trouble," Johnny explained. "If we send an older guide she complains the entire time, asks for a new guide, things like that. Gives a shitty rating when the tour is over. It's bad for the company."
"And if you send someone younger?"
"She wants to fuck them."
Ben let Johnny refill his tea, a smile at the corner of his mouth. "Well, that doesn't sound so bad."
"Nah man, she's old."
Old, to Johnny, could cover a broad range. In his late twenties, with careless good looks, and a brash, sometimes smug attitude, the guide had no problem attracting lovely women his age.
"So she's what, thirty?"
"No, old! Looks forty to me."
The waitress brought them both plates of food, dropping them onto the bar with the same lack of decorum she had displayed earlier. Johnny, he knew, would have said something to the waitress about his American friend's taste in food. "You know," Ben said, picking up his chopsticks, "I don't only eat lo mein."
"You wouldn't like what we're eating," Johnny said, nodding toward the tourists.
Judging by the presence of tripe and chicken feet on Johnny's plate, that was probably a safe assessment.
"Sounds like she needs to get laid," Ben said, returning to the earlier conversation.