I heard my name being called out from the midst of the teeming horde pressing in on the barriers after customs in New Delhi's Indira Gandhi international airport, and a head and arm waving a sign was bouncing up and down over the tumult. The sign the young man was carrying said "Clifford Jenkins" with "New York" written under it. That was me. But I wasn't being met by anyone that I knew of. The young man obviously thought I was, though, as he was pushing his way through the crowd, moving toward where I would have to join the crowd myself at the end of the separated-off corridor. He had his eyes on me and was waving just for me.
"Mr. Jenkins?" He held up a photograph that clearly showed that I was the man he was looking for. "I am Gupta," he said, as he came up to me. "I am your escort here in India."
"My escort?" I said, not comprehending.
"Yes, yes. I take you to Chennai to find Tamil translator. I speak Tamil and Gujarati and very, very good English. I guide you where you want to go down in Tamil Nadu. I guide you here in New Delhi too."
How did he know why I had come to India and what I was to do here? I stared at him blankly.
"Khurana. I am cousin to Khurana. Khurana, who works for you in New York. He tell me to meet you and to guide you and to take care of you."
Ah, Khurana Bhutra. One of the news agency's Indian translators in New York. One who was very good at what he did, but who also was irritating and demanding. It had been Khurana who had set off this notion that the international news agency I worked for needed another Indian translator in New York. We had taken on some government translation work in Hindi and Tamil, and Khurana had insisted we had to have another Tamil speaker to handle it.
"Come just this way. I have transportation. What is your hotel, please."
He had taken charge, and one part of me was very glad he had. I was overwhelmed by how many people were swarming around in the airport, jabbering in a mix of languages, some I didn't know, and many of these people—too many—looking emaciated and holding their hands out in supplication, their eyes big with hope, their hopes somehow focused on me.
Even as I let the young man, Gupta, lead me along through the crowd, him now rolling my suitcase so that there was no question I would follow along, I could see the hope in his eyes too. He somehow needed to establish favor with Khurana; he needed to do this service. How could I politely deny him? This ploy was just like Khurana, though. I could manage this on my own, but Khurana wanted me to be in the position to owe him as well. So I was being forced to need something from him. He was always doing this around the office—and then calling in on a chit I hadn't asked to possess and often didn't realize would have been seen as a favor from Khurana until he made a claim against it. It was maddening, but he did it expertly.
Gupta was as thin as many of those pressing about me, but he looked more strongly built than most, and he also was a handsome young man, neatly dressed in a white shirt and khakis and with clean tennis shoes, I noticed. I noticed they were clean, because so much of what others were wearing, especially their shoes, weren't clean, were in tatters. Even here, in the airport, the filth under foot was noticeable, as was the scruffiness and dinginess of everyone's shoes—those who were wearing shoes. Most were in some sort of thin sandals or were barefoot.
He had expressive brown eyes and a shock of unruly jet-black hair, and, surprisingly, since most around us were dusky skinned, his skin was alabaster white. Khurana was similarly pale and somewhat superciliously had told me it was how you could tell the purer descendants of the Mogul rulers from the masses. And, indeed, Gupta cut his way through the crowd as a prince would. The mass parted for him, and we shortly were on the curb at a cab stand.
I was sweating profusely already from the sweltering heat I had been slathered in from the very doors of the passenger jet and from the press of the crowd, starting in the arrival lines at passport control. I couldn't help myself. I was glad that the young man was here, even though he was holding my elbow possessively.
"What hotel?" he repeated.
"The Ashok," I answered.
"Ah, very, very good hotel. Khurana picked well."
I would have retorted but for the fact that Khurana, indeed, had suggested the accommodations. And later, as the cab approached the sprawling hotel, looking every inch like a raja's palace, I reluctantly had to thank Khurana under my breath for his choice.
I felt no disappointment all the way through the efficient check-in process. In contrast to the airport, all here was calm and long stretches of regal furnishings in cool fabrics and marble walls with few people in sight, or, rather, with everyone in sight looking attractive and well heeled, and at their leisure, not in a hurry to be anywhere. This contrast had already hit me as the cab that, as Gupta had said had been waiting for only us beyond the cab stand at the airport, drove through Old Delhi into New Delhi. The atmosphere turned from filth, heat, oppression, and teeming and seemingly hopeless and helpless masses, to, as we entered the new city, cool greenery, serenity, majestic buildings set in vast gardens, and the near absence of people on the streets. There were no sidewalks here; pedestrians obviously weren't welcome.
"Most Indians cannot enter New Delhi," Gupta answered to my question on this. "It is for the government and foreigners. As an Indian from the old city, you must work here or obtain a pass to visit."
I was disappointed in the answer—the thought that the people's government wasn't accessible by the people themselves, but the foreigner in me couldn't help but be pleased at the lack of pressing humanity and the frustration of the wants and needs of fawning South Asians closing in on me.
My room was large, appointed in cool silks, and wood paneled. The two windows looked out onto a vast green lawn. The bath was marble and also luxurious in its waste of space. The tub was sunken and square, enough for a couple, and I immediately had visions of honeymooners spending their entire hotel time together in the tub.